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Counter of a gluten-free bakery in Barcelona with bread and pastries

Coeliac in Barcelona, the 24 Flour-Free Kitchens

Conesa appears on almost every gluten-free list of the city and its own site says it makes 90 per cent of its sandwich menu with gluten-free bread, not all of it. That gap is the whole problem: Barcelona has 245 places with an option and 24 with no flour in the kitchen, in 10 of 73 neighbourhoods.

🇪🇸 Leer en español Llegeix-ho en català

Barcelona lists 245 places with a gluten-free option, and for anyone with a diagnosed coeliac condition that number is close to useless. The one that counts is 24: the kitchens where no flour enters at all. Those 24 are concentrated in 10 of the city’s 73 neighbourhoods, with four in l’Antiga Esquerra de l’Eixample, four in la Dreta de l’Eixample and four in les Corts. The longest day belongs to Cal Marius, at Carrer de Mallorca 449, open 6am to 11pm every day of the week; the two Messié pizzerias, at Siracusa 15 and Muntaner 109, run noon to 11:30pm; and the Jansana and Cøliaki bakeries, both on Carrer de Balmes, open 8:30am to 8pm Monday to Saturday.

Is Barcelona good for coeliacs? There are 245 places with a gluten-free option but only 24 with an entirely flour-free kitchen, in 10 of 73 neighbourhoods. Cal Marius on Carrer de Mallorca 449 runs 6am to 11pm, and Messié makes pizza at Siracusa 15 and Muntaner 109 until 11:30pm.

The two words that decide everything

The Spanish phrase on the menu is sin gluten, and in Catalan sense gluten. Both mean the dish contains no gluten. Neither tells you anything about the kitchen it came out of.

The phrase that does is sin contaminación cruzada, no cross-contamination. A place that says it is a cocina sin gluten or 100 % sin gluten is claiming no flour on the premises. A place that offers opciones sin gluten is telling you the opposite: there is flour, and they work around it.

If you need to say it yourself, soy celíaco in Spanish or sóc celíac in Catalan is understood everywhere, and in the 24 places below you will not need to. Of the 245 with an option, 153 publish hours and 154 have a website, so most can be checked before you walk over.

How many hours each flour-free kitchen is open

How many hours each fully gluten-free kitchen is openDaily opening hours of the places whose entire menu is gluten free, from the establishment census and each house’s own website: Cal Marius, at Carrer de Mallorca 449, seventeen hours, 6am to 11pm every day; Gula Sana, at Carrer de la Diputació 361, twelve hours, 9am to 9pm; Messié Pizza, at Siracusa 15 and Muntaner 109, eleven and a half hours, noon to 11:30pm daily; the Jansana bakery at Balmes 106 and Cøliaki at Balmes 219, eleven and a half hours, 8:30am to 8pm Monday to Saturday; Aruku at Provença 327, ten and a half hours; Gluten Tag at Travessera de Gràcia 173 and Celiadictos at Carrer de la Pobla de Lillet 5, ten hours; Manioca at Avinguda Diagonal 593, nine hours; and My Fucking Restaurant at Carrer Nou de la Rambla 35, four hours, dinner only from 7pm to 11pm. The census lists 245 places with a gluten-free option and 24 with an entirely gluten-free kitchen.Cal Marius 44917 hCarrer de Mallorca 449 · 6am–11pm dailyGula Sana12 hCarrer de la Diputació 361 · 9am–9pm dailyMessié Pizza11.5 hSiracusa 15 and Muntaner 109 · 12pm–11:30pmJansana11.5 hCarrer de Balmes 106 · 8:30am–8pm Mon–SatCøliaki11.5 hCarrer de Balmes 219 · 8:30am–8pm Mon–SatAruku10.5 hCarrer de Provença 327 · 1pm–11:30pmGluten Tag10 hTravessera de Gràcia 173 · 10am–8pm Tue–SatCeliadictos10 hCarrer de la Pobla de Lillet 5 · 10am–8pmManioca Diagonal9 hAvinguda Diagonal 593 · 8:30am–5:30pmMy Fucking Restaurant4 hCarrer Nou de la Rambla 35 · 7pm–11pm dailydaily hours · 24 fully gluten-free kitchens on the census, of 245 with an option
Cal Marius runs seventeen hours straight and is the only one where breakfast, lunch and dinner all happen in a flour-free kitchen.

Cal Marius is the only one that covers a whole day, seventeen hours from 6am to 11pm, every day. It is the closest thing to breakfast, lunch and dinner without changing venue.

Below it, Gula Sana at Carrer de la Diputació 361 runs twelve hours, 9am to 9pm. The two Messié pizzerias and the Jansana and Cøliaki bakeries all sit at 11.5 hours, though in different parts of the day: the pizzerias open at noon, the bakeries at half past eight in the morning. Aruku manages 10.5. At the other extreme, My Fucking Restaurant at Carrer Nou de la Rambla 35 opens four hours, 7pm to 11pm, because it only does dinner.

Of the 24, just 18 publish their hours and 22 have a full street address on the census. For the remaining six the only route is the place’s own page.

The 24 kitchens with no flour

PlaceTypeAddressHours
Cal Marius 449Bakery and caféCarrer de Mallorca 4496am–11pm daily
Messié Pizza Sin GlutenPizzeriaCarrer de Siracusa 15noon–11:30pm daily
Messié Pizza Sin GlutenPizzeriaCarrer de Muntaner 109noon–11:30pm daily
Jansana Gluten Free BakeryBakeryCarrer de Balmes 1068:30am–8pm Mon–Sat
CøliakiBakeryCarrer de Balmes 2198:30am–8pm Mon–Sat
Gula SanaCaféCarrer de la Diputació 3619am–9pm daily
ArukuSushiCarrer de Provença 3271pm–11:30pm; to midnight Fri and Sat
Gluten TagBakeryTravessera de Gràcia 17310am–8pm Tue–Sat
CeliadictosShop and takeawayCarrer de la Pobla de Lillet 510am–8pm weekdays
BoPerTu CafèCaféCarrer de Galileu 2829am–4pm Tue–Fri
ManiocaCaféAvinguda Diagonal 5938:30am–5:30pm weekdays
ManiocaCaféCarrer de Sardenya 5611am–5:15pm Mon–Wed
PötstotVegan restaurantCarrer de València 2041pm–4pm and 7pm–11pm
A VocadosRestaurantCarrer d’Enric Granados 131pm–4pm and 8pm–11:30pm, Wed–Sat
My Fucking RestaurantRestaurantCarrer Nou de la Rambla 357pm–11pm daily
MAAICaféCarrer de Regàs 309am–4pm weekdays
ChökPatisserieCarrer de les Ramalleres 269am–9pm daily
chökPatisserieSant Pere, Santa Caterina i la Ribera9am–9pm daily
Pizza NaturaPizzeriaCarrer de Pau Claris 153hours not published
The Fish & Chips ShopTakeawayCarrer de Casanova 91hours not published
MuyscaRestaurantCarrer del Baluard 72hours not published
Coliaki Gluten FreeBakeryCarrer de Mallorca 504hours not published
M2 Gluten FreeShopAvinguda Diagonal 505hours not published
HanaiJapaneseSant Pere, Santa Caterina i la Riberahours not published

The two chök rows need checking on the spot: the company’s own site marks its Carrer del Carme shop as 100 per cent gluten free, not the whole chain.

The trap most lists fall into

Conesa, at Carrer de la Llibreteria 1 beside Plaça de Sant Jaume, appears on almost every gluten-free list of the city and is not a flour-free kitchen. Its own website is clearer than any label: it makes 90 per cent of its sandwich menu with gluten-free bread, and it tells customers not to accept a sandwich unless it carries the gluten-free identifying label.

That sentence is the whole distinction in one line. A place with a wide option and a serious protocol is still a place with flour in it, which for a diagnosed coeliac is a different decision, not a detail.

Gut, at Carrer del Perill 13, describes vegan and gluten-free options rather than an exclusive kitchen, and Honest Greens, at Rambla de Catalunya 3, runs a general menu across its chain. Neither belongs in the 24 either.

Where they are and where there are none

Where the flour-free kitchens are, and where it is only an optionThe 24 entirely gluten-free kitchens sit in 10 of the city’s 73 neighbourhoods, four in l’Antiga Esquerra, four in la Dreta de l’Eixample and four in les Corts; the 245 places with some gluten-free provision spread across 33 neighbourhoods.2 kmA VocadosA VocadosARUKU Sin Gluten Sushi GluARUKU Sin Gluten Sushi GluBoPerTu CafèBoPerTu CafèCal Marius 449Cal Marius 449CeliadictosCeliadictosChökChökColiaki Gluten FreeColiaki Gluten FreeCøliakiCøliakiGluten TagGluten TagGula SanaGula SanaHanaiHanaiJansana Gluten Free BakeryJansana Gluten Free BakeryM2 Gluten FreeM2 Gluten FreeMAAIMAAIManiocaManiocaManiocaManiocaMessié Pizza Sin GlutenMessié Pizza Sin GlutenMessié Pizza Sin GlutenMessié Pizza Sin GlutenMuyscaMuyscaMy Fucking RestaurantMy Fucking RestaurantPizza NaturaPizza NaturaPötstotPötstotThe Fish & Chips ShopThe Fish & Chips ShopchökchökTaller de TapasTaller de TapasGranja ViaderGranja ViaderBuenas MigasBuenas MigasHard Rock CafeHard Rock CafeStarbucksStarbucksMcDonald’sMcDonald’sTaller de TapasTaller de TapasPans & CompanyPans & CompanyPatagonia Beef & WinePatagonia Beef & WineStarbucksStarbucksMussol RestaurantMussol RestaurantLa TagliatellaLa TagliatellaTijuanaTijuanaArkoArkoBurger KingBurger KingEls ‘Pollos’ de LlullEls ‘Pollos’ de LlullBuenas MigasBuenas MigasEls “pollos” de LlullEls “pollos” de LlullLa RieraLa RieraSempronianaSemproniana
Places44 points · scroll to see them all
Map on open cartography from the ICGC and OpenStreetMap: hover over a point or pick it from the list to see its details.

The 24 flour-free kitchens sit in 10 neighbourhoods, which means 63 of the city’s 73 have none at all. The cluster is the Eixample and les Corts: four in l’Antiga Esquerra, four in la Dreta de l’Eixample and four in les Corts, twelve between the three.

Two each in la Sagrada Família, el Raval, Sant Gervasi - Galvany, la Vila de Gràcia and Sant Pere, Santa Caterina i la Ribera. La Barceloneta has one, Muysca at Carrer del Baluard 72, and la Vila Olímpica has one, Manioca at Carrer de Sardenya 56.

That distribution matters for choosing where to stay. The old town has four of the 24 between el Raval and Sant Pere — two chök patisseries, Hanai and My Fucking Restaurant at Carrer Nou de la Rambla 35 — and only the last is a full sit-down dinner. If a flour-free kitchen within walking distance is a priority, the Eixample is the answer.

Planning around it on a trip

Six things that change a trip once the list is down to 24 addresses.

  1. Book the Eixample if you can. Twelve of the 24 are within walking distance of each other there.
  2. Breakfast is the easy meal. Five bakeries and five cafés among the 24, most open by 9am.
  3. Dinner is the hard one. Only Messié, Cal Marius, Aruku, My Fucking Restaurant, Pötstot and A Vocados serve past 9pm.
  4. Sunday narrows it further. Several of the 24 close Sunday or Monday, so check before crossing the city.
  5. The 245 with an option are mostly burgers, coffee shops and Italian, 39, 34 and 17 respectively, which is where swapping the bread is easiest.
  6. None of the 24 publishes prices, so the menu is read at the door.

The wider picture of eating here is in the first-time visitor guide, which covers the late eating clock, and what opens on Sunday and Monday applies to this list as much as to any other. If you are self-catering, supermarket Sunday hours decide when you can stock up, and tap water here is drinkable, which removes one shopping trip. For choosing a base within walking distance of the Eixample cluster, the neighbourhood guide is the place to start.

For a coeliac in Barcelona the number to carry is 24, not 245.

Frequently asked questions about gluten-free Barcelona

Is Barcelona good for coeliacs?

Better than most Spanish cities for options, but the useful count is smaller than it looks. The census lists 245 places with a gluten-free option and only 24 where the whole kitchen is flour free. Those 24 sit in 10 of the city’s 73 neighbourhoods, mostly in the Eixample and les Corts.

Where can you eat gluten-free pizza in Barcelona?

Messié Pizza Sin Gluten has two sites, at Carrer de Siracusa 15 and Carrer de Muntaner 109, open noon to 11:30pm every day, and its own site states a kitchen with no cross-contamination. The third fully gluten-free pizzeria is Pizza Natura at Carrer de Pau Claris 153.

Are there gluten-free bakeries in Barcelona?

Yes. Jansana Gluten Free Bakery at Carrer de Balmes 106 and Cøliaki at Carrer de Balmes 219 both run 8:30am to 8pm Monday to Saturday. Cal Marius at Carrer de Mallorca 449 opens 6am to 11pm every day, seventeen hours, and is the one that covers breakfast through dinner.

How do you say gluten-free in Spanish and Catalan?

Sin gluten in Spanish and sense gluten in Catalan, and soy celíaco or sóc celíac for I am coeliac. The phrase that matters most in a restaurant is sin contaminación cruzada, no cross-contamination, because that is the difference between a gluten-free dish and a gluten-free kitchen.

Is Conesa gluten free?

Not entirely. Its own site says it makes 90 per cent of its sandwich menu with gluten-free bread and tells customers not to accept a sandwich without the gluten-free label. That is a wide option with a clear protocol, not a flour-free kitchen.

Reinel González

We update this guide periodically. If you manage a space mentioned here, want to correct information, or explore a collaboration, write to us at bcnurbana@gmail.com.