Two comic shepherds, a devil and the archangel Michael: that is Els Pastorets, and Barcelona has twelve of them. Els Pastorets is the Catalan Christmas play, telling the journey to Bethlehem with angels, devils and comic shepherds, staged each year by neighbourhood groups. Most perform the 1916 text by Josep Maria Folch i Torres, and casts can run to over a hundred people at El Centre in Gràcia. For visitors the easiest pick is the musical version at Centre Sant Pere, 220 m from Urquinaona metro, at €10 for adults.
Is Els Pastorets worth seeing in Barcelona? Yes, as a slice of local Christmas in a neighbourhood theatre. Pick the musical version at Centre Sant Pere, near Urquinaona, or the one-hour show by Jove Calassanç Teatre if you are with children. Tickets ran from free to €12 last season, and shows start between 5 pm and 7:30 pm.
Which Pastorets fits your travel dates
Last season the shows ran from 14 December to 11 January. Match your trip to a venue:
- Before 20 December. Casinet in Font d’en Fargues and the Poblenou group open on 14 December; the free show at Auditori Sant Martí starts on the 19th.
- The weekend before Christmas. The busiest moment: on 21 December eight groups were on stage at once, including Centre Sant Pere, Sants and Gràcia.
- Christmas week. El Centre in Gràcia, Sant Andreu and the Foment Martinenc carry on; Sant Andreu even plays on Christmas night, 25 December at 9 pm.
- New Year to Three Kings. El Centre, Centre Sant Pere, Sarrià, Sant Andreu and the Foment Martinenc all play on 3 and 4 January.
- After Three Kings. On 11 January only Poblenou and Sarrià are left.
Which version is easiest without Catalan
The script is in Catalan, and mostly in verse, so pick the format rather than the venue:
| Version | Where | Why it suits visitors | Price |
|---|---|---|---|
| Musical | Centre Sant Pere, old town | Songs carry the story; 220 m from Urquinaona | €10; up to 12, €5 |
| One-hour show | Jove Calassanç Teatre, Camp de l’Arpa | The shortest, made for young children | When you book |
| Big-cast classic | El Centre, Gràcia | Over a hundred people on stage, twelve dates | €12 |
| Classic with songs | Orfeó Martinenc, El Clot | Folch i Torres mixed with a version full of songs | When you book |
| L’Estel de Natzaret | Poblenou and Sarrià | The older 1903 text by Ramon Pàmies | When you book |
The story is the Nativity, so you will follow it. What you lose without Catalan are most of the jokes of Lluquet and Rovelló, the two comic shepherds.
Where the shows are and how to get there
All twelve are neighbourhood halls or small theatres. Centre Sant Pere is the only one in the old town; El Centre is in Gràcia, 183 m from Fontana; the rest are spread through El Clot, Sant Martí, Horta, Sant Andreu, Sants and Sarrià.
A T-casual, 10 rides for €13, covers the return trip for two; the metro ticket guide explains the options, and the Barcelona safety guide covers the metro at busy times. If you go to Gràcia, the Gràcia neighbourhood guide has places to eat before the show.
How to get tickets
Tickets for El Centre and Centre Sant Pere are sold online; last season Centre Sant Pere’s went on sale on 1 December. The Auditori Sant Martí show is free, but you need a booked seat, by phone on 932 565 760. Elsewhere, ask for the price when you book with the hall.
What you might not like
- It is amateur theatre. The charm is the tradition and the neighbourhood, not polished staging.
- The language. Outside the musical and one-hour versions, you will miss most of the jokes.
- Running times are rarely published. Only the Jove Calassanç version gives one, an hour.
- This year’s dates are not out yet. Groups announce them in late November; the dates here are last season’s.
For other Christmas shows, from The Nutcracker to the Palau de la Música, see Christmas shows and concerts in Barcelona. Travelling with children? Christmas in Barcelona with kids has more ideas, and the nativity scenes and the Three Kings parade complete the season. Everything else is in Barcelona at Christmas.
Frequently asked questions about Els Pastorets
What is Els Pastorets?
A Catalan Christmas play about the shepherds who go to Bethlehem, with angels fighting devils and two comic shepherds, Lluquet and Rovelló. Neighbourhood groups across Barcelona stage it every year between mid-December and the week after Three Kings, mostly with amateur casts.
Is Els Pastorets worth seeing if I don’t speak Catalan?
Yes, if you pick the right one. The plot is the Christmas story, so it is easy to follow, but the script is in Catalan verse. The musical version at Centre Sant Pere and the one-hour show by Jove Calassanç Teatre are the easiest to enjoy without the language.
Where can I see Els Pastorets in central Barcelona?
At Centre Sant Pere, on Carrer de Sant Pere Més Alt, 220 m from Urquinaona metro. Last season its musical version ran on 20 and 21 December and on 3 and 4 January at 6 pm, at €10 for adults and €5 for children up to 12.
How much do Pastorets tickets cost?
Between nothing and €12. Last season the show at Auditori Sant Martí was free with a booked seat, Casinet in Font d’en Fargues cost €6, Centre Sant Pere and the Centre Catòlic de Sants €10, and El Centre in Gràcia €12.
When is Els Pastorets on in Barcelona?
Last season the first shows were on 14 December and the last on 11 January, mostly in the late afternoon, between 5 pm and 7:30 pm. This year’s dates are announced in late November.
For a Christmas tradition locals actually go to, the musical Pastorets near Urquinaona is the easiest first step.